There’s something special about travelling to photograph surf in an environment that’s steeped in culture and richness – it adds an entirely new element to a trip.
You get this feeling that it’s more than just waves – it’s a sense of place, culture and tradition.
This doesn't seem to happen as much anymore. These days everything seems to be way too organised, planned and catered for. I much prefer the spontaneity of chasing a swell with a small crew and experiencing the local culture and honouring their traditions - living off the grid for a while.
“This was a journey. A real journey. And in my humble opinion, that ideal is endangered.”
Everyone that has travelled, everyone that has surfed – they know that the whole thing is really about the journey. Perhaps that’s why a trip like this… to an island in the middle of the Pacific, on a volcanic rock, getting bludgeoned by massive swells, as remote, as you can get… is so important.
WAVES OF CONSEQUENCE
POINT BREAK - HELL OR HIGH WATER - “The swell arrived and did not disappoint, conditions were flawless and the scene was set, local surfers continued to vi for waves as it was business as usual at the worlds most notorious left-hander.…”
MONSTER SURF - Nias “The usual suspects, the team of big wave surf nomads that circulate the globe, arrived at a similar time to myself, in time for an 8-10ft swell.”
EDGE OF OBLIVION - CODE RED - “Perched precariously on the back (stern) of George Riou’s boat, I am 100% focused on capturing whatever drama is about to unfold in front of me. A shiver runs up my spine as a…”
BIG WAVE SURFERS - Fiji “Fiji not only produced one of the biggest swells ever, but became a magnet for the world’s best big wave athlete’s, both tow and paddle.”
WILD OCEAN - DARK FUN - “Some surf locations need no introduction, however, if you're still unsure let me just say it's one of the wildest and most dangerous locations in the world for surfer and photographer. Great whites don't seem to mind the bitterly cold conditions.”
BEYOND LIMITS - SUPER HUMAN - “2015's year of Pro Surfing was beyond incredible and at the same time brutally punishing. The world's best surfers were absolutely pushed to the bloody edge…”
WAVE OF CONSEQUENCE - “These waves are ridden by choice not chance, those who chase them, hunt them and ride them, all understand the consequences and choose to risk their lives.”
Bruno Santos
Read the full story & watch Jon Franks mesmerising clip >> IRON HORSE | RipCurl THE SEARCH
Thanks to: RipCurl - The Search.
To surfing talent and travel companions Bruno Santos, Guillmero Satt, and the talented Videographer Jon Frank.
To Nikon Australia, Manfrotto, Gitzo & Aquatech.
And to our water support crew and local connection Alemao.