SURF HIGHLIGHTS
Following my instincts and supported by constant research of the weather charts some pretty exciting events presented themselves late last year.
Capturing those special moments that actually become part of historical surfing folklore, in what I must say were some of the most challenging conditions ever for photography.
Firstly Fiji, some swells just stand out and straight away you know they are going to be special. Of course they don’t all turn out that way so it’s a bit of a gamble laying down cost of an international airfare, and associated cost on a whim and a forecast.
WIPEOUT: Caio Vaz - Brazilian
“But luckily my gamble was pretty good.”
Fiji not only produced one of the biggest swells ever, but became a magnet for the world’s best big wave athlete’s, both tow and paddle. It produced, arguably the largest wave ever ridden at Cloudbreak, a tow wave by Ramon Navarro as well the best ever paddle surfing by legend Laurie Towner.
WAVE OF THE DAY: Laurie Towner – on one of his many late drops.
Laurie consistently paddled over the edge to take the latest of drops by angling his rail into the lip and then carving around once it had taken hold. I must admit this is the first time I have ever witnessed a standing ovation from the worlds best big wave surfers on his return to the lineup out the back.
BIG WAVE SURFING: Laurie Towner (Needs Essential).
He had just pulled off the latest of drops from deep inside, almost where the tow guys were taking off, to pull in to one gigantic barrel and emerge down the line. Meanwhile this was occurring in the harshest weather conditions as a tropical storm was lashing the Island chain.
Australian Surfer making history – Laurie Towner.
Rain was going side ways and there was no avoiding getting every thing wet if you wanted to get the shot. I had a $1,000 camera equipment repair bill after that trip, but managed to capture those rare moments in surfing history.
“– it was worth it.”
GIANT SURF: Dan Ross for Patagonia on a giant tow wave at Cloudbreak, FIJI 2018
Other standouts were Dan Ross, Laurie’s partner in crime, whom also snagged one of the biggest waves of the day and then loaned Laurie his board after Laurie’s broke, remembering these boards are in excess of ten feet and are rare commodities as such. Dan is one of my favourite surfers and even more favourite human.
BRAZILIAN SURFER Danilo Couto charing a giant barrel.
It was pretty cool sharing that particular journey with Laurie, Dan, Nav Fox and Woody, Gary Parker, and made all the more special by the appearance of Laurie’s dad whom described the day as the best day of his life.
HAWAIIAN BIG WAVE SURFER Koa Rothman – Cloudbreak, FIJI.
MONSTER CLOUDBREAK: Luke Shepardson from the North Shore, Oahu.
Caio Vaz’s spectacular attempt to avoid life threatening lip.
Next weeks Photography Blog ‘MONSTER SURF AT NIAS’
WAVES OF CONSEQUENCE
ENDANGERED - Surf Adventure (Iron Horse) “This was a journey. A real journey. And in my humble opinion, that ideal is endangered.”
POINT BREAK - HELL OR HIGH WATER - “The swell arrived and did not disappoint, conditions were flawless and the scene was set, local surfers continued to vi for waves as it was business as usual at the worlds most notorious left-hander.…”
MONSTER SURF - Nias “The usual suspects, the team of big wave surf nomads that circulate the globe, arrived at a similar time to myself, in time for an 8-10ft swell.”
EDGE OF OBLIVION - CODE RED - “Perched precariously on the back (stern) of George Riou’s boat, I am 100% focused on capturing whatever drama is about to unfold in front of me. A shiver runs up my spine as a…”
WILD OCEAN - DARK FUN - “Some surf locations need no introduction, however, if you're still unsure let me just say it's one of the wildest and most dangerous locations in the world for surfer and photographer. Great whites don't seem to mind the bitterly cold conditions.”
BEYOND LIMITS - SUPER HUMAN - “2015's year of Pro Surfing was beyond incredible and at the same time brutally punishing. The world's best surfers were absolutely pushed to the bloody edge…”
WAVE OF CONSEQUENCE - “These waves are ridden by choice not chance, those who chase them, hunt them and ride them, all understand the consequences and choose to risk their lives.”